I am no art connoisseur! I photograph as a hobby, but it
sort of ends there. I can’t tell the difference between a Picasso and street
graffiti. In fact, it’s because of people like me that Mr. Bean can break eggs
over Whistler’s mother and still get away with it! But that shouldn’t stop me
from appreciating art in my own individual way. After all, isn’t art the
right-brained introspection and reflection of all of society’s left-brained
rules and conventions? However, Shekhawati
doesn’t really adhere to either side. It’s more a reengineering of the canvas,
lateral thinking and innovation.
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| 'Kuan' or well in Mandawa |
Entrepreneur’s club
The semi-arid region of Shekhawati is made up of the modern
day districts of Jhunjhunun, Sikar and Churu in Rajasthan. Its claim to fame is
the numerous entrepreneurs that have their roots here. But then again
Shekhawati has had a long tradition of trading – old caravan routes, some starting
at the ports of Gujarat others from China passed through these parts, creating
an affluent Marwari community.
Public art gallery
Shekhawati is regarded as ‘the open art gallery’ of India
and the village of Mandawa is probably the best example on display. It is
touristy enough for you to have access to comforts yet rural enough to allow
your senses to experience the freshness and authenticity of the place. Indeed,
Mandawa has no masks. There are no
information boards or placards, no directions to the tourist spots.
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| Locals |
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| Walking in Mandawa is quite an experience |
The main attraction here is the havelis – old decaying
structures, now a fragment of their former glory, when their owners still
occupied them. You can easily stay at a haveli in Mandawa. There are a few of
them that have been converted into hotels, but they still retain their feeling
of grandeur. And what’s more, they aren’t that expensive either. I myself
stayed at a haveli known as the Shekhawati hotel – not the most glamorous, but
a haveli nonetheless.
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| Inside the Jhunjhunwala haveli |
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| Street Art |
So what is a haveli?
When translated from Persian, ‘haveli’ means an ‘enclosed
space’. It is in some ways, a south asian mansion. Havelis are typically 2-3
storeys with the higher storeys having balconies supported by carved and
painted brackets. The windows on these balconies that are generally plain
wooden panels hinged on the sides are conspicuous by their stark contrast to
the decorated walls .The building is built around a rectangular courtyard which
might have a fountain or a small artificial pond. The haveli contains several
rooms with possibly certain areas especially for men or women. The walls outer
and inner are frescoed and decorated. Some might even have antiques on display.
(http://www.havelirestaurant.co.uk/about-us/meaning-of-haveli/,
http://www.sarahglynn.net/The%20Haveli.html)
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| Vibrant colours of Rajasthan |
Among the notable havellis are the Goenka double haveli, the
Gulab Rai Ladia haveli, the Mohanlal Saraf Haveli, Murmuria haveli and others.
There is also the Mandawa haveli now turned into a hotel. With their original
owners moving to India’s metros over time, most of them are now looked after by
caretakers employed by the original families. The havelis demonstrate a
community’s desire to preserve their showcase of art; but unfortunately, this
showcase is in a slow state of decripitation like many of India’s monuments. With
paint peeling off and moss encroaching in from the corners, the liveliest thing
you will find are the fluttering clothes on strings in the courtyard. But don’t
get me wrong, even the frescos that are left intact are a feast for the eyes.
Most themes revolve around Hindu mythology and royalty. Also apparent is the
colonial influence, with paintings of Europeans and the advances they brought
to the subcontinent. Renovations are on in most havelis and one hopes that the
former elegance of these buildings is fully restored.
It is highly recommended that your see Mandawa on foot – it is
small enough for you to cover the entire village in a few hours and it is worth
every minute! Some of the best work on display is not inside the havelis, but outside.
Murals and paintings will accompany as you walk through the village- street graffiti
of a different kind! Add to this, a
touch of regular Rajasthan – the striking colours of local attire against the sandstone
coloured walls, the equally colourful and animated puppets on the corners and
the calm, self coloured camel who doesn’t quite seem to bother if you exist or
not – and you have a visual treat.
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| Looking out from Ganga Mai temple, Nawalgarh |
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| Gaurd at Mandawa fort |
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| A peacock in Nawalgarh |
Excursions from
Mandawa
People often wonder about the best base to explore
Shekhawati is – for me it’s easily Mandawa. Some of the other cities/towns in
the region like Jhunjhunun, Nawalgarh and Sikar are crowded, dirty and more
expensive. The exhibition continues but the homely and unadulterated feel is
missing. Other village/towns worth a mention are Churu, Mukundgarh, Dundlod and
Fatehpur.
Pointers
- “On the merchant’s trail in Shekhawati”, a concept paper is an excellent read on the region and the architecture (If only I found it before going there!). It can be downloaded at http://portal.unesco.org/geography/en/ev.php-URL_ID=7765&URL_DO=DO_TOPIC&URL_SECTION=201.html
- To explore Shekhawati, you should pick not more than 3 towns/villages – it can get repetitive and boring
- Look out for peacocks – India’s national bird
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| Lively puppets |
