Yes, you read that right – this post is all about shopping;
perhaps one of my effeminate posts, even more so since this trip was done with
male companions. But before you get all excited, let me assure you, Bhutan is
no Dubai or Singapore or Bangkok. There are no big malls, no fancy neon lights
guiding you to expense; rather it’s the simplicity and authenticity of
tradition that you shop for. Make no mistake though – tourism is a big earner
for Bhutan in spite of its restrictions, but people are happy, content and more
importantly, belly-full, so they are unlikely to chase you around to buy
anything.
THIMPHU
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| Murals on homes depicting deities are common |
The capital of Bhutan affirms the country’s status as the
last Shangri-la. Every building reflects the local architecture - the bordered
windows against the monochromatic walls, the sloped roofs, the murals of the
four deities on the walls. Out on the streets, all the men are in Gho and the women in Kiras – you can get high on the
uniformity. Surely, you must get the authentic stuff here!
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| A local couple in the traditional Gho & Kira |
But before you loosen your purse strings, it might just
enrichen the experience if you started from the ground up. Head to the National
Institute for Zorig Chusum, a centre where local students are trained in the 13
traditional arts. Stroll around through the classrooms while instructors guide
the students through wood carvings, painting, clay modelling and other arts.
Yes, you are free to watch a class in session and hope that you understand body
language well as the lessons are likely to be in Dzongkha. Once you’re done
poking around, head to the shop where some of the students’ work is available
at a relatively cheaper cost and I might add, the quality isn’t too bad either.
But, if students’ work doesn’t make the cut, head back to
Norzin lam for plenty more options. At the North end of the street, Tarayana
foundation – the entire range of handicrafts made by rural women and its fairly
cheap – a total win-win. If you still aren’t happy, there are 2 more options.
The first is a handicraft fair on one side of Norzin lam that is supposedly to
go on till 2016. Some of the shops deal only in wood, others only in cloth, but
within the 40 odd stalls, you will find anything you are looking for. The
second are the standard handicraft shops that you are used to seeing in any
tourist destination and you will find them around the clock tower on Norzin lam
and on some of the parallel streets to the east.
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| Norzin Lam by night |
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| Wood carving at the NI for Zorig Chusum, Thimphu |
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| Clay modelling at the NI for Zorig Chusum, Thimphu |
Kira Tip: Local cloth
is usually made for Kiras and is sold on basis of ‘half kira’ or ‘full kira’
and that might cost a bit. To get cheaper cloth and on a metre basis, scout
around on Norzin Lam (and on the main road in Paro) and you might just find a
few. I got my mum some cloth from Dorjee Gyaltshen Tshongkhang on Norzin Lam.
PARO
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| Local play Kuru (darts) in Thimphu |
Paro is Bhutan’s 6th
largest ‘city’, but with a population of about 5,000, its merely a village by
Indian standards. Like Thimphu, it conforms to dress codes, architectural style
and buildings too – a Dzong guarding over it and Stupas to line its roads. Its
proximity to the International airport and Bhutan’s biggest tourist attraction,
the Tiger Nest monastery, ensures that this tiny hamlet has amazing hotels.
But, on the other hand, its small enough for you to get some good bargains from
the locals.
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| Darts being sold at a shop in Paro |
Most of the ‘standard’ handicraft shops are on the
Thimphu-Paro highway just as you enter into Paro. At Paro, try getting a little
more local. Scout for stamp and coin retailers and try sending yourself some
rare stamps. The crowds are less in these handicraft shops and the owners are
likely to give you a bit more time.
If you haven’t sampled Bhutanese sport, Paro gives you a
great opportunity to. The Druks like taking aim – Darts and Archery are the
popular sports of the region. You will often find children and youth flinging a
dart or firing an arrow on some barely even, patchy piece of earth by the
wayside. Replace Cricket with Darts/Archery in one of India’s small towns and
you have Bhutan. You can find darts and boards being sold for a reasonable
price in grocery stores here. They are sold in pairs and you can get them for
as cheap as Rs. 250 a pair.
