On the traveler’s menu – St. Peter’s fish

“There’s fish, pasta and pizza, but the fish is the best!” – It’s a tall and slim, light haired girl who I take to be the waitress. She has too much make-up in comparison to others of her kind around, but the apron around her waist and the pen and pad in hand poised to scribble down some dictation assure me that she isn’t just a local trying to make herself useful. The fish she speaks of is called ‘St. Peter’s fish’ - I am at the Eingev kibbutz on the eastern banks of the Sea of Galilee (also known as Kinneret, Lake of Gennesaret or Lake Tiberias) in Northern Israel and it’s a moment of reckoning – a time to separate tourists from travelers.

The kibbutz (Hebrew for “communal settlement”) is a rural community built on the principlesof joint-ownership, equality and co-operation. It is regarded as a socio-economic achievement in Israel which in some has ways has formed the backbone of Israeli agriculture. (http://www.jewishvirtuallibrary.org/jsource/Society_&_Culture/kibbutz.html)

The sea of Galilee with the Golan heights in the background

Tourists board a boat for a short cruise around the sea

The restaurant at Ein Gev

I have never understood the purpose of the tourist – the creature who spends a fortune travelling to an alien land, only to seek out the familiar. He desires his native cuisine or the like, the comforts of his home and his most cherished souvenir is a picture of him grinning in front of some famous landmark – proof that he was actually there! To each his own you might say, and you are right. Everyone would have their own reason for travel. Here on this tour, I can safely say that most people are on pilgrimage – to walk and pray where their God once did. They aren’t here to immerse themselves in the local culture. So it isn’t surprising that they often break into song in the bus – traditional Indian song - or ask for some dal and chaval now and then. So in this context, I guess my confusion was confined to why a coastal dwelling lot (Mumbai & Goa) would refrain from digging into some fish. Perhaps, it didn’t have the right masalas or it wasn’t cut right or even fished out right. Perhaps it wasn’t Pomfret brought from the stench at Gorai, stuffed with bottle masala and served on a bed of rice that was bought from Vijay’s banya stores!

St. Peter’s fish- the coin collector

Ref Matthew 17:24-27 (St. James bible)

When Jesus and his disciples came to Capernaum, the collectors of the temple-tax came to Peter and asked, “Does your teacher pay the temple-tax?”

“Of Course”, Peter answered.

St. Peter's fish / Tilapia

When Peter went into the house, Jesus spoke up first, “Simon, what is your opinion? Who pays duties or taxes to kings of this world? The citizens of the country or the foreigners?”

“The foreigners”, answered Peter.

“Well then,” replied Jesus, “that means that the citizens do not have to pay. But we don’t want to offend these people. So go to the lake and drop in a line. Pull up the first fish you hook, and in its mouth you will find a coin worth enough for my temple-tax and yours. Take it and pay them our taxes.”

Some books put the temple-tax at 2 drachmas and the coin fished out at 4 drachmas. The fish identified was Tilapia and it soon came to be known as ‘St. Peter’s fish’.  Read more at http://dqhall59.com/fish_and_coin.htm

It is even more surprising when you realize that a bunch of pilgrims turned down sea food that is christened after St. Peter – first bishop of Rome, rock of the Church, keeper of the keys to the gates of heaven. The only connection perhaps being that St. Peter the fisherman would have caught a good number of these in his lifetime (and the story mentioned above). Nonetheless, the lunch gives me time to admire the kibbutz I’m in. Ein Gev which means ‘waterhole spring’ is a wonderful lakeside settlement at the foot of the Golan Heights. While the restaurant is the main attraction, it also houses a hotel in the kibbutz for people looking for a more Israeli experience. I make a mental note of that – it will certainly be on my agenda the next time I travel to Israel. Looks like the dolled up waitress is back with my fish and fries – you will have to excuse me.

For more details on Ein Gev visit www.eingev.com

Excursions from Ein Gev

Jesus did most of his work around the sea of Galilee and there are plenty of churches/chapels erected at the sites of his miracles/preaching etc. Even if you aren't a believer, there are certainly worth a visit.

The little dock at Ein Gev

In the footsteps of God- The Via Dolorosa

The Church of the Holy Sepulchre from station 9

You skirt the Temple mount in the first part of the walk

It is the most celebrated walk in human history – its events have intrigued historians, baffled scientists and is re-enacted in its Christian encapsulation of the 14 stations every Easter. The ‘Via Dolorosa’ (meaning the ‘way of sorrows’)-when Christ walked and bled his last and the resurrection that followed, form the cornerstone of Christianity.

Most pilgrims start the walk from the Lion’s gate. We however start from Herod’s gate on the northern wall – an irony if you are a pilgrim, fitting perhaps if you are simply touring the city. King Herod ruled Judea (under Roman rule) between 37 BCE and 4 BCE. History documents him as a great builder and a murderer (even of his own wife and children) – the second description gets support in the Bible which accuses him of the murder of a multitude of infants when he heard of a King (Jesus Christ) being born in his land.

Statue of Christ in the Church of condemnation

Both gates though will lead you into the Muslim quarter of the old city which borders the Temple mount to the north and in part on the west. It is short walk in parallel to the northern wall, past fruit sellers, meat vendors, bakeries and other regular shops to the road straight up from Lion’s gate. Suzanna our guide now turns around to the group with a caution –“From here onwards we will only be climbing”. A few meters ahead is the point of the first two stations (Jesus is condemned to death & Jesus receives his cross). The site which is owned by the Franciscans houses the chapel of flagellation and the Church of the condemnation.  It is also where Herod’s fortress Antonia stood. Many believe the Pilate’s praetorium was in the Antonia – hence the spot for the first 2 stations. Apart from the few archaeological exhibits in the courtyard, there is nothing out of the extraordinary about the Church. With Latin Christians having built most of the Roman Catholic churches in Israel, the insides are quite familiar with tall cylindrical pillars, crowned by exquisite stucco work and high arches. The altars bear Latin inscriptions and the corners hold statues of Christ or some saint – in this case one of them is a statue of Jesus as a prisoner of the Jews with his crown of thorns.

Custodians of the Holy Land: You know if a site is owned by the Franciscan order by two symbols – the 5 crosses and the image of 2 hands crossing each other. The 5 crosses are said to be originally a crusader symbol, then used by the Franciscans – it denotes the 5 wounds of Christ. The two hands in the second symbol are that of Christ and St. Francis of Assisi. Both palms contain wounds (perforation) of crucifixion. The Vatican has entrusted the Franciscans to build and preserve churches on holy sites in the country since the 13^th century. They are known as ‘Custodia Terra Sanctae’. Read more at http://www.custodia.org/

The Ecce homo arch - where Pilate is believed
to have presented Jesus to the Jews
saying "Ecce homo" (Behold the man!)

We cross the Ecce homo arch and few carpet sellers and take a 90^o left onto El Wad Hagai (road) to get to the site of the 3^rd and 4^th stations – Jesus falls for the first time and Jesus meets his grieving mother. The site is a chapel belonging to the Armenian Catholic Patriarchate. The front and the inside depict a cross bearing Christ on his knees. The fourth station is adjacent to where we are, so we complete both stations here itself. If the strain of the climbing is already taking its toll on you, this is perhaps a good time to stop for a rest – next door is an Armenian restaurant serving snacks and meals and happens to be right next to the 4^th station.

Inside the Armenian chapel

Incense - this one along with the bread (below)
was taken on the detour to the wailing wall

After this point, the city closes in on you. The road gets narrower and the Muslim quarter comes to life in a concoction of colours and odours of an old mart – a commotion of pilgrims making their way through a street market. Carpets in shades of red and brown hang from the walls of limestone, blue and white ceramics are on display in some shops, the fumes of incense mingle with the smell of hot bread -the circular bread (beigel) with sesame toppings being the most noticeable. Clearly, modern Jewish Israel hasn’t been able to suppress the roots of the Old city.

Carpets for sale

The fifth station (Simon of Cyrene help Jesus carry his cross) sits on a T junction. You can continue straight to the Western wall or turn right to continue on the Via Dolorosa. There is a small Franciscan chapel here to mark the spot that was built in 1229 (their first site in Jerusalem) - unfortunately it is closed. You might think that a group of 45 stopping here even for a couple of minutes to complete the station might be rather inconsiderate, but I guess the locals are used to this – there are many more like us stopping on way saying their prayers at every station. But it is important that you leave a small passage to allow people to pass through. From here, we take the steps up towards the sixth station (Veronica wipes the face of Jesus), the second of the less conspicuous stations (the others being the fifth, seventh and eighth). Here stands another chapel with gate closed – this time it’s Greek.  If you think the bazaars have been left behind, you’re wrong - religion and commerce continue their competition for space, and the competition carries us straight ahead into the Christian quarter and the Seventh station (Jesus falls a second time). Again another chapel, again another closed door – too many chapels too few priests I guess. At the Eighth station (Jesus speaks to the women of Jerusalem)as well, there is nothing extravagant – in fact there isn’t even a door here to the Greek Orthodox chapel behind the walls, just a postcard seller. 

Beigel

To me it resembles a ‘land grab’ of sorts, similar to those history has witnessed at the discovery of any expensive commodity like gold or oil. Now certainly, religion is no commodity – all religions have strong brands – strongly segmented masses, icons, symbols and jingles of association and the ultimate loyalty that brings forth martyrs and saints. Jerusalem is perhaps the holiest city in the world – a consecrated piece of land to Jews, Christians and Muslims. So it isn’t surprising that at every opportunity, members of all three religions with their internal factions took land and built grand buildings of prayer on each one of them. Of course, politics interfered quite often leaving things to disgrace rather than veneration. Today, on the 18th of December, as news channels report on the flaring up of the Israeli-Arab conflict, we in Jerusalem, a few kms from the West bank are walking peacefully through the city. There are no signs of any tensions or lack of safety. There at least appears to be harmony in the four quarters - a testament to Al-Quds.

The markers of the path - the tiled slab naming the path, the franciscan symbols and the roman numeral on the circular metal plate denoting the station. If you are ever confused/lost these are your crumbs of hansel

You have to retrace your steps back to the seventh station and take a right to move towards the ninth station. We are now in the Souq Khan el Zeit. The pandemonium is magnified, and a third sense is provoked with local music blasting away. We are suddenly jostled to one side by a procession – at the head is a priest in black carrying a large wooden cross and following him are a group of about 20-25 people- mostly women with scarves on their heads. They are obviously on the same path, but are in some sort of hurry. Behind them is another man yelling instructions in Arabic. He is one of the traders and is pushing a huge cart up the road – we part again. Looks like commerce is playing second fiddle here, but whose side are we on I wonder!

Make way for the cart

You need to take care not to miss the right turn that leads to the open stairs from the Souq – ask around, there are no markers here. The stairs take you to the ninth station (Jesus falls a third time) where we get our first glimpse of the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. A Coptic Church marks the spot. It’s a few meters ahead and left to the terrace of arguably the most sacred Church in Christianity.

The Church of the Holy Sepulchre was originally built by Emperor Constantine in 333 AD after his mother (St. Helena) determined the location of Golgotha in 326 AD. Since then it was destroyed and rebuilt, but the foundations remain. It houses churches for the Catholics, Armenians, Syrian Orthodox, Greeks Orthodox, Coptics and Ethiopians. But the keys to the church are in possession of two Muslim families – Nuseibeh and Judeh. They open the Church every day – a tradition that has been followed since the 13^th century.

In the African village on the terrace of the Church of Holy Sepulchre

Depiction of the last 3 stations

The Rotunda with the top of the chapel housing the tomb

We move down past a few chapels into the main Church. Stations 10-14 are here in different parts of the Church. It’s Sunday, and prayers/masses are all around. Moreover, when there is mass, that part of the Church is cordoned off, so we cannot complete the stations in sequence. The most easily accessible is the 13^th station – a raised block of stone on which Christ was laid after he was taken down from the cross. Behind it is an exquisite mosaic depiction of the last 3 stations. We move towards the Rotunda, where the tomb of Christ sits in a stone cubicle structure in the centre.

Finish! Finish!

The ambulatory around it is packed with pilgrims – it’s a fusion of races, colour and language, possibly even citizens of politically opposite states – a sight that would make any leader of the Church proud. But the sight isn’t so comforting for us, the pilgrims, standing in the long line awaiting our turn to get into the little chapel. The chapel has a narrow entrance – one can pass in or out at a time. And as luck would have it, it is time for the Armenians to conduct mass. Pipe organs and a deep chorus of hymns fill the rotunda. It would have spooked me out if I was alone, but now in some way it completes the scenes of devotion before me. About half an hour later, the Armenian priests walk through the outer section of the ambulatory oscillating their thuribles and spreading the vapors of incense all around. The organ dies down. The route to the chapel is open once more.

The mosaic at Golgotha

The experience of the tomb is rushed – quite natural given the number of people waiting to get in. It simply doesn't give you time to let it all sink in. I move in under the dim light into the first part – the chapel of the Angels where there stands a part of the stone that covered Christ’s tomb. Up ahead is a priest dressed in black yelling ‘Finish! Finish!” between deep yawns. He has obviously had a long day. He finally signals to me to get it in – I have merely two minutes for the realization that the tomb of My God lies in front of me to hit my tired brain, before I hear the priest again. It all happened so fast, a wait for over an hour for an experience of two minutes!

The front facade of the Church
(our tour group in the foreground)

We then make our way down and back up another flight of stairs to the site of the Crucifixion – the stone of Golgotha. This time the crowd is smaller, but Suzanna issues a warning – “This is not a place for prayers. Touch the stone and move quickly”. But the crowd bought me enough of time to at least admire the mosaic on the ceiling and pillars depicting Christ’s last moments on earth alive in the flesh.  Again the experience ends in a flash – a quick kneel, stick your hand out to feel the stone and your off, out of the site and downstairs one more.

It was done, it took us no less than three and a half hours, but the Via Dolorosa was complete. It’s as one of the group mentioned a little later – “Your Easters will never be the same again”.

More pics at http://www.flickr.com/photos/fotos_riaan/sets/72157632150873204/

TIPS

• You can join the Franciscan Clergy every Friday for the 14 stations
•  If you have the legs for it, you should start from the Mount of Olives and trace the steps of Christ across the Kidron valley and into the city of Jerusalem as well – the sights will astound you!
• If you are with old/sick/crippled people, you might want to go with a tour – the older/crippled people are generally allowed to sit out their turn or move up in line and coordination becomes easier with a lot of people around.
• Start early and finish early to appreciate the grandeur of the buildings especially the Church of the Holy Sepluchre– more so in the winters. Israel moves back its clocks and sunset is at around 4:30 pm.
• We toured the Holy Land with Purple Orchid (http://purpleorchidholidays.com/) – the guidance and arrangements were great, but it felt a bit rushed at times (like any tour would). If you have the time and the energy, you should travel through the entire Old city on foot – it is just 1 sq. km! And keep aside at least 3 whole days to explore all of Jerusalem.

References/Further reading

• Our guide on the tour (Suzanna)
• http://www.livius.org/he-hg/herodians/herod_the_great01.html
• http://www.sacred-destinations.com/israel/
• http://www.biblewalks.com/
• http://www.seetheholyland.net/via-dolorosa/
• www.helloisrael.net

Khan-el-Khalili: Bargain hopping

Diwali all around: Lanterns at the Khan-el-Khalili

Bargaining with street vendors is certainly not my forte! The issue is rather acute especially since I’m Indian and it’s supposed to be in my blood. So I needed all the help I could get when I visited the Khan-el-Khalili.

Bread vendors outside the Hussein mosque

Khan-el-Khalili is a hunting ground for the bargain seeker. It was founded as a Turkish bazaar in 1382 right on the Al-Muiz street, which was the major artery of Fatimid Cairo. Modern Cairo has certainly moved, but the Al-Muiz still holds the charm of an Islamic city with her minarets towering above all else. Amidst, the grandeur and piety of the mosques, mausoleums and the Al-Azhar university stands a babble of merchants, the ‘Khan’.

Cafes outside Khan-el-Khalili. Al-Azhar mosque in the background

To get to the Khan-el-Khalili, find the Al-Hussein mosque just off the Azhar street. It is named after the grandson of the Prophet Muhammad, Husayn Ibn Ali. With some believing that his head is buried in the premises, it makes it one of the holiest mosques in Cairo. The pencil minaret marks the spot. Around it are numerous vendors selling Egyptian bread or Eesh Baladi, a local and larger version of pita bread. You can identify them by the large wooden cages they carry them in. Further up, lining the street is a series of cafes, comfortably spilling out of their spaces onto the street, mingling with bustle of tourists and worshippers. If you look foreign like I do, you might have to fend off the waiters and the bread vendors – tell them that you will be back later – it worked for me. But all the same, it is a good tempering for what you are about to experience. The market is more than a collection of narrow alleys, its an immersion into the cacophony of traders, the glimmer of trinkets and distinct odour of coffee – an Arab souk and more.

Souvenirs on display

I was with my Mum on this one. She is certainly the more experienced shopper and unlike me, she was at the ‘Khan’ to actually shop. But, we were surrounded. The traders were switched on the second we stepped foot in the street. “Sir, you Indian…we love the India…see this only 5 pounds, because we love the India”, “Welcome to Shah Rukh Khan shop….kya haal hai?”, “Indian, Indian! My name is Krishna, what you want – Shirts? Pyramids? I give you best price”…. For some reason, all of them and I mean all of them, had no problem in figuring out our nationality. And as you can see, they had the routine planned and rehearsed!

Narrow alleys of the market

Then we entered Salama’s shop. Salama was stocky, had a short haricut,  emphasized his consonants and extended his vowels– like most of the others around. Oh and ofcourse, he had been to Mumbai 3 times before –that was his Indian story. He spoke broken English – good enough to make a trade, awful if he had to say, recite some English poetry impromptu. “Just see, just see once, then you can go”, he kept saying and beckoned me into the shop. After refusing so many vendors before, I couldn’t say ‘No’ again and entered just to play along at first. His shop was like all the others before him. On display were trinkets, small models of the pyramids, sphinx and other Egyptian symbols made out of wood or stone. Walkiing sticks, plates, TShirts and papyrus art completed the range.

Minaret of Al-Hussein mosque

My mother though suddenly showed some interest in a set of three pyramids. They were of 3 different sizes (to represent the ‘Khufu’, ‘Khafre’ and ‘Menkaura’ pyramids).  The quote came in – 350 EP. Sulama then took one of them and started banging it on the desk –“See very strong, no break”. “Too high” was my mother’s call and she began to walk away in typical Indian fashion. But you really can’t walk away here in Khan-el-Khalili! I had read about it in articles and travelogues before – the vendors are relentless and sometimes take offense if you don’t bargain well! Salama exchanges a few words in Arabic with a few other vendors near him and then quotes a lower number. The game had begun. But the quote was still too high. Salama looks pleadingly at me. I don’t even want the pyramids! “I only pay, Mum decides”, I tell him. With a one swift action, he grabs hold of my mother’s arm and pulls her back into the shop. But, here’s the funny part – she is now also being addressed as ‘Mum’!

A little variety in the market

‘Mum! Mum! I give you good price - 200 for the large pyramid’. Still not good enough. Now, while turning out, my mother tells Salama that he should ask me as I was ‘the boss’.  I didn’t know where to begin. I quote an extremely low number to seem unreasonable. So he turns back to my mother, “Mum! You strong woman – I know, so I give you the best price -150”. Nope, not there yet! Salama sinks back into his chair and waves his hands about dramatically in despair. Once again I find myself alone in the store – ‘Mum’ had walked out and started bargaining with some other vendors.  Yes! trapped in the Lion’s den. This time I couldn’t be unreasonable – the game had gone on too long even for Salama and he was bringing out the clichés – “Ok I give you for 120, because I like both of you!” Finally, after a few more rounds, Salama agreed to 155 and my Natraj pen (worth Rs. 5) for all three pyramids. 350 EP to 155! Not a bad deal I guess, though with my poor record, I shouldn’t be the one to decide that.

Fishawi Cafe

I came to the Khan to see an Egyptian souk in action – merchants haggling away in her disorderly streets amidst her old stone walls, maybe catch another tourist playing the ritualistic game of negotiations. Rather it was me thrown into fray! A little more than I had bargained for, I guess.

TIPS

• Explore the entire market before making a purchase – partly because you want to experience all of Khan-el-Khalili, partly because there is a lot of repetition and you might get a better deal somewhere else
• Don’t miss the cafés in and around the market. We had tried the El-Fishawi Café in the market itself.

References

www.touregypt.net

Kaas - plateau of flowers

Thoseghar falls

A walk in the clouds

Wind turbines at Chalkewadi

Flowers at Kaas plateau

Old Goa

Viceroy's Arch

Dome of St. Cajetan's Church

Se Cathedral

Laterite walls of Bom Jesus Basilica

Barges in the Mandovi (view from Our Lady of the Rosary Church, Old Goa)

Restoration outside the chapel of St. Catherine

Gate of the college of St. Paul

Ruins of St. Augustine's tower

Our Lady of the Rosary church

View from Our Lady of the Mount chapel (St. Cajetan's church in the foreground)

The Latin Quarters - Panjim

The next time someone tells you that they are going for a holiday to Goa, ask them what they intend to do there. You are likely to get ‘surfing’, ‘lazing on the beach’, ‘swimming’ and the like. But that’s not all, there are a few who might try something else, like ‘getting drunk on the beach’, ‘eating vindaloo at a beach shack’, ‘dancing at a club’(near the beach). The single minded need of tourists to cling to the state’s sandy strip often makes one wonder if there is anything more to this Portuguese colony of old. Is Goa just one long beach with different names to confuse tourists? Thankfully it isn’t. The experience that is Goa – the free flowing alcohol, the late night parties, the spicy chicken and pork dishes and the fun-loving yet laid approach of the locals – has a history to it. The beach is where it might all come together, but there is another side that is still traditional and charming, the side I believe to be the authentic Goa. She can be found in little hamlets a short distance from the coast, in old Portuguese baroque churches and colourful bungalows. Today, I explore the Latin quarter of Panjim to immerse myself in her heritage.

Sao Tome marked on the map of Panjim

Ourem creek

Sao Tome

Contrasts of Sao Tome

Statue of Dr. Dias with Casa da moeda in the background

My taxi drops me off on Ourem road, close to the St. Sebastian chapel. It’s a short walk from there to the Tobacco square, named after the current office of the post master general, earlier known as Tobacco house, where the tobacco trade was started to revive a recessionary Goan economy. I guess smoking isn’t injurious to commerce. Her clean reddish-maroon and white exteriors suggest a new coat of paint – one of the better maintained buildings here. On the other side of the square, Sunday morning mass is on in the Sao Tome chapel. On its left stands the G.X. Verlekar & Sons Jewellers. Unfortunately, the only well maintained part of the building is the name plate. The rest is antique and broken with green wooden balustrades and old wiring poking out of its decrepit and randomly plastered side. However, you can still see the discoloured stucco mouldings above the balconies. On the other side of the tobacco house is the Casa da moeda (“house of coins”) which served as Goa’s mint from 1834-1841.

Sao Tome chapel

It’s then onto the Rua Luis de Menezes and the 31^st January road (named after the date of Portugal’s

liberation from Spain), where the buildings of Sao Tome come to life – the predominant pastels mingling with the darker reds and browns, the contrasts around the casement windows, the red tiled roofs and the vintage overhanging balconies although fewer.

Fontainhas

Morning quota of bread

The colour and contrasts continue into Fontainhas. I also begin to notice the hand painted name plaques for roads and houses. White backgrounds with blue decorated borders seem to be the most common but not the norm. The plaque generally holds the name of the family or street prefixed with a ‘Casa’ or ‘Rua’. But I am more interested in the pronunciation of ‘fontainhas’. I keep saying “fôntīnäs” till finally when asking an elderly man for directions; he replies “fôntānyäs” firmly. I repeat the same, and he nods his head with approval and says, “It’s Portuguese!” with pride. Meanwhile, still within a earshot, as I walk away, I hear a woman mumbling something to which the gentlemen replies, “Ah!  turistas..” with an air of dissent as if I were the hundredth person he corrected that day. But don’t be misled by that incident. The people are very friendly and are more than happy to correct your pronunciation, engage you in chit-chat and share their version of Goan heritage with you. I walk upto the spring or fountain from where the place gets its name and then turn back and left over Emidio Gracia road towards the church square (earlier known as ‘Largo da Igreja’) which is home to the famous Church of our Lady of Immaculate Conception.

At least the sun is shining on them here!

Hand painted plaques (tiled)

Fontainhas

Central Panjim

The Church of our Lady of Immaculate Conception, which was built in 1541, stands tall overlooking the church square. Her white façade is broken by a series of stairs leading to the top. Unfortunately, another morning mass is on and I can’t get in.

Church of Our Lady of Immaculate Conception

It’s down Dr. R.S. road and right towards the statue of Abbe Faria, a Goan monk famous for his contributions to hypnotism. I end the walk at the old secretariat on the Avenida Dom Joao Castro road on the banks of the Mandovi.

Statue of Abbe Faria

It’s now half past ten – Casino Prime on the other side of the river is probably closed, but the yachts are up and cruising through the Mandovi – time for the touristy version of Goa to take over!

References/Good reads

(http://casacandolim.com/the-sao-tome-walk.htm, http://goanarchitecture.blogspot.in/, http://casadamoedagoa.wordpress.com/about/home/, http://goacentral.com/Goachurches/churches_of_goa.htm, http://www.heritagejazz.com/about_goa.php?view=more&id=7, http://www.goaholidayhomes.com/info/87/the-statue-of-abbe-faria/)