Timeless Pizza!

I often tell people that I was introduced to Pizza by Michelangelo and Raphael. No, not the artists, the Ninja Turtles! Yes, growing up, our ‘heroes in a half shell’ were the latest crime fighting stars and pizza became the coolest food of the day! You won’t catch me narrating my early encounters with pizza to the Italians though. They take their art and food very seriously, and my statement would be nothing short of blasphemy!

But, my pizza experiences were limited largely to the Indian subcontinent, where the food is more commercial. So I was looking forward to the tasting the real stuff in Italy. My first journey took me to Naples – about 225 kms from Rome. It was a tour to Pompeii with City Wonders (https://citywonders.com/) that included a hike to Mt. Vesuvius and pizza at Naples.

Naples is the home of Pizza – at least the modern version, or so I’m told. If you think Italy’s history manifests in just stone buildings, you are in for a surprise. Pizza has its own history and it unfolds here in Naples.

The flatbread isn’t an Italian creation. It was consumed across the Mediterranean and Asia in different forms and was often eaten with different toppings. In the 1700s, Naples supported a large number of working poor (“Lazzaroni”) who found Pizza convenient – cheap and easy to consume. 

The Marinara and the Margherita are considered to be the ‘classics’. The first, is older and is named after ‘la marinara’ or the seaman’s wife who would prepare this food for husband when he returned from the Bay of Naples. The second has a more interesting story. After Italy’s unification in 1861, King Umberto I and his Queen visited Naples in 1889. The royal couple wanted to sample the local fare which of course consisted of Pizza. But there was a special variant that the Queen enjoyed – it resembled the Italian tri-colour with Basil, mozzarella and tomato. This was the first Margherita pizza, named after who else but the Queen, Margherita. The queen’s liking of a poor man’s food probably triggered the wide adoption of the food across the country which spilled over to other parts of the world when the Italians migrated.

Keep it rolling

The tour takes us to a restaurant in Naples for an original ‘Napoletana’. It’s fluffy and soft as compared to the ones in Rome which are thinner and have a crusty edge. As I sunk my teeth into a bit of history, I couldn’t help but compare the soft bread and the elastic mozzarella to the tandoori chicken pizza I got back home, or worse still, some chilli paneer version of it!

Next stop was a cooking class in Rome with InRome cooking (http://www.inromecooking.com/). Chef Max who is from Sicily quickly tells us the difference between Roman and Neapolitan pizza – similar to what I had heard on the tour 2 days earlier. But, we weren’t here for tales of Pizza’s history – we had to make our own Pizza. Max quickly gets into the method of making the perfect dough and somehow I wasn’t surprised to learn that a key part of the process was the time you leave the dough to rest – good things in life take time right! Longer the time, the lighter is the base. We add the tomato sauce and the toppings, shove it into an oven for about 5 mins and out comes a Pizza!

How in the world did this become a fast food – centuries to mature and at least a day to make!

The output

References:

• Chef Max and our City wonders guide Becky
• http://www.history.com/news/hungry-history/a-slice-of-history-pizza-through-the-ages
• http://www.unico.org/pdf/The_History_of_Pizza.pdf

Kabini - The call of the wild

This wasn’t meant to be a drive through a forest and see Tiger pugmarks. Unlike my previous experiences with wildlife, Kabini promised the real thing, an immersion into the animal kingdom, a call to the wild! So when, I saw a Tiger’s stripes pass stealthily behind the grass on my first safari, it reconfirmed my notions about the place. Unfortunately, that was it for the big cats – there were alarm calls, rushes to spots of sightings, but the felines remained elusive. It was surprisingly, a bunch of wiry little canines that gave me the wildlife experience. Wild dogs, who individually look ever so innocuous, are actually as a pack the best hunters in the jungle with a strike rate of 8/10, as I am later told by Vincent, the naturalist at the Bison. Well it wasn’t really a hunt like I wished - just the pack pushing an elephant out of their territory. It might seem dreary and boring, but it was the real deal, all said and done. And to watch the puny little fellas push back an elephant was quite the eye opener. Watch and enjoy!

TIPS:

• We stayed at the Bison which is the only resort with a view of the national park. You can get a more ‘luxurious’ tent or machan experience here as well (there will be insects but fewer)
• If convenience is more your style, try Jungle lodges, run by the government – they are the only ones who can run safaris (so wherever you stay, you have to do the safari through them) and they have built up rooms
• You have the option of the boat safari and the jeep safari – Boat safaris are better for birds and water animals like otter. The jeep safari scores on all others.
•   Most people come to Kabini via Bangalore, but it given the option you should try Kozhikode – it’s a different scenery and a better one. Alternatively, if you are game for a slightly longer drive, try Coimbatore (you will pass through Mudumalai and Bandipur on the way). We went via Coimbatore-Coonoor (stopped here for 2 days)-Ooty and it was worth it – got quite a few animals before we reached Kabini.

Mt. Bromo : Sunrise, sulphur and selfies

It’s perhaps one of the most touristy things I’ve done on my solo trips. Every website, blog or discussion board around Mt. Bromo had enough and more to say about the hordes that visit the crater every day. Nonetheless, a visit to an active volcano seemed like quite the adventure back home in India – nothing could be further from the truth. But, there’s a glimmer of hope for those who want to stay away from the crowds. Getting to Mt. Bromo alone and without wheels may not be a great adventure, but it sure gets you closer to people and the land.

The Tengger caldera from Seruni point

Across the sea of sand

Tengger houses

Smoking Mt. Bromo

It’s pretty noisy for a small village at 3 in the morning. But, this is when the sleepy Cemero Lawang roars to life with dozens of four wheelers. Sunrise over the Tengger caldera with its apostles  - Bromo, Batok and Semeru – is what is creating all the ruckus as tourists get ready for a short trip to Seruni point (sunrise point), about 200-250 mts above the village. Some also go the top of Mt. Pananjakan or to the top of Mt. Bromo . I prefer an early morning hike and am there in an hour. Sunrise is uneventful and “selfied”. Later Semeru gives us a burp of smoke and ash much to our delight. 

However, the walk down Mt. Pananjakan is the real deal. With the sun out, the Tengger potato fields reveal themselves along with the crude but neat houses in them. The people are up and about, mostly in the fields though.

Inside Poten temple with Mt. Batok in the background

About 75 mins later, I am at the foot of Mt. Bromo across the eerie sea of sand. In fact, more eerie than the Lautan Pasir, is the poten temple. Dedicated to Bromo (derived from ‘Brahma’, the Hindu God of creation), it stands lonely and desolate, almost taunting Mt. Bromo to annihilate it. It’s quite the opposite of what you would witness in India as people almost ignore the holy structure and head for the crater above. And these are a lot of people – a few score– all for sulphur fumes at the top. Most people take horses up and they are quite the nuisance. After weaving past them, I get to the stairs and up to the crater, where I can peer down into the volcano. The others are having a ball too - the selfie sticks are out again. Did I mention this place is touristy?

Crowds going up Mt. Bromo

Mt. Bromo – DIY 

Itinerary from Surabaya Intl. Airport, costs in thousand Indonesian rupiah

1. DAMRI bus to Bungarasih bus terminal : 25
2. Bungarasih to Probolinggo: 29 (you get an option of express and economy bus, I took express)
3. Probolinggo to Cemero Lawang: 50 (Here you shift into a mini bus. Exit the bus terminal onto the main road and turn left, you will see a few mini buses parked there. Costs are variable depending on number of people and the bus wont move till it is full, unless others are willing to pay more. In my case I was told it was 525k for the entire bus of 15 ppl which works out to 35 per head. And after waiting for about 2 hrs, we managed to get 10 ppl, with the cost at 50 per head)
4. Homestay : 200 (I stayed at homestay UDIN right before cafe lava hotel. If you are early, you can get one of the bigger hotels for a similar rate, but don’t count on it)
5. Food: Max 40 w/o alcohol per head per meal. Plenty of places around for local food
6. Entrance ticket: 220 ph. (Rarely checked – nobody checked my ticket – but you might not want to take a risk)
7. Cemero Lawang to Surabaya – same route/way back

TIPS

• Mt. Bromo is an active volcano and last erupted in 2011, however, the eruptions are not frequent. Mt. Sumeru on the other hand spits out ash/rock every 15-30 mins.
• Cafe lava hotel gives you a map of the region for free
• For good views of the volcanoes, move towards Lava view lodge
• If you take the jeep for the sunrise tour (sunrise pt. + Mt. Bromo + a couple other points) it will cost you about 125k per head. However, even with the jeep, you will have to climb up the last leg to Seruni and climb up to Mt. Bromo.
• Horses are also available but they don’t take you all the way to the top either. (When I went to Seruni point, there were some who took jeeps, and then horses, but still had to walk up the stairs for 10 mins.
• The way from Cemero Lawang down to the sea of sands, is by a narrow dirt road near cemero Indah hotel
• Dont miss the views of Mt. Arjuna in the distance on the way down from seruni point
• There are a couple of shops where you can pick up local souvenirs from the bromo hat to fridge magnets
• Do NOT take direct buses from Surabaya to Cemero Lawang, stop at Probolinggo and switch – there are no direct buses and you are likely to get cheated
• I took a Simpati sim card (Telekomsel) and it worked fine. Not sure about others.
• Cemero Lawang is about 2,200 mts high and the mornings/nights can get nippy (It was about 16 deg in the morning in April)
• If you arrive to Cemero Lawang early (by noon), go to Mt. Bromo. Most of the crowds come in at sunrise and immediately after. By noon, you are likely to have the place to yourself.

The coach potato!

Arbitrage – it’s funded careers, it’s grown businesses, and sometimes it can just about create an engineering marvel.  The Darjeeling Himalayan railway was born out of the difference of potato prices between Siliguri and Darjeeling. Not only is the DHR an astounding feat of engineering, but well, the views aren’t too bad either, as it skirts the hills of North Bengal with the Kanchendzonga massif in the background. I had briefly seen the train in action during a visit to Darjeeling in 2010. But now, I was riding the ‘express’ with my parents.

Along Batasia loop (2010)

Up Hill cart road

Adding fuel to the fire

The train originally ran from New Jalpaiguri to Ghoom, but the route has been closed following a landslide. So I booked a more ‘touristy’ trip – one from Darjeeling to Ghoom (the highest station in India) and back. But touristy as it might sound, it was quite the novel experience as I was about to find out.

The Train runs along the hill cart road with regular traffic moving in parallel and a lot faster – yes, this is more of a slow coach in 2014 as it charges along at the speed of yesteryear with intermittent halts to cool off as the engine negotiates the curves and inclines of the hill town. However, speed doesn’t define the steam engine experience – sticking your head/or hands out of the window does as you get covered in soot – I didn’t say it was a clean experience. Luckily for me, the soot didn’t make me scary enough to ward off the friendly locals who often stop to wave you on – even if you aren’t a potato farmer. Who cares about the burning coal a few meters away, that's heart-warming enough I say!

The memorial at Batasia loop with Kanchendzonga in the background

TIPS:

• Dont forget to visit the railway museum in Ghoom.
• While the train stops at Batasia loop, you might want to go there separately in the early morning for good view of Kanchendzonga
• Book early especially during tourist season – seats are few.

Shopping in Shangri-la

Yes, you read that right – this post is all about shopping; perhaps one of my effeminate posts, even more so since this trip was done with male companions. But before you get all excited, let me assure you, Bhutan is no Dubai or Singapore or Bangkok. There are no big malls, no fancy neon lights guiding you to expense; rather it’s the simplicity and authenticity of tradition that you shop for. Make no mistake though – tourism is a big earner for Bhutan in spite of its restrictions, but people are happy, content and more importantly, belly-full, so they are unlikely to chase you around to buy anything.

THIMPHU

Murals on homes depicting deities are common 

The capital of Bhutan affirms the country’s status as the last Shangri-la. Every building reflects the local architecture - the bordered windows against the monochromatic walls, the sloped roofs, the murals of the four deities on the walls. Out on the streets, all the men are in Gho and the women in Kiras – you can get high on the uniformity. Surely, you must get the authentic stuff here!

A local couple in the traditional Gho & Kira

But before you loosen your purse strings, it might just enrichen the experience if you started from the ground up. Head to the National Institute for Zorig Chusum, a centre where local students are trained in the 13 traditional arts. Stroll around through the classrooms while instructors guide the students through wood carvings, painting, clay modelling and other arts. Yes, you are free to watch a class in session and hope that you understand body language well as the lessons are likely to be in Dzongkha. Once you’re done poking around, head to the shop where some of the students’ work is available at a relatively cheaper cost and I might add, the quality isn’t too bad either.

But, if students’ work doesn’t make the cut, head back to Norzin lam for plenty more options. At the North end of the street, Tarayana foundation – the entire range of handicrafts made by rural women and its fairly cheap – a total win-win. If you still aren’t happy, there are 2 more options. The first is a handicraft fair on one side of Norzin lam that is supposedly to go on till 2016. Some of the shops deal only in wood, others only in cloth, but within the 40 odd stalls, you will find anything you are looking for. The second are the standard handicraft shops that you are used to seeing in any tourist destination and you will find them around the clock tower on Norzin lam and on some of the parallel streets to the east.

Norzin Lam by night

Wood carving at the NI for Zorig Chusum, Thimphu

Clay modelling at the NI for Zorig Chusum, Thimphu

Kira Tip: Local cloth is usually made for Kiras and is sold on basis of ‘half kira’ or ‘full kira’ and that might cost a bit. To get cheaper cloth and on a metre basis, scout around on Norzin Lam (and on the main road in Paro) and you might just find a few. I got my mum some cloth from Dorjee Gyaltshen Tshongkhang on Norzin Lam.

PARO

Local play Kuru (darts) in Thimphu

 Paro is Bhutan’s 6^th largest ‘city’, but with a population of about 5,000, its merely a village by Indian standards. Like Thimphu, it conforms to dress codes, architectural style and buildings too – a Dzong guarding over it and Stupas to line its roads. Its proximity to the International airport and Bhutan’s biggest tourist attraction, the Tiger Nest monastery, ensures that this tiny hamlet has amazing hotels. But, on the other hand, its small enough for you to get some good bargains from the locals.

Darts being sold at a shop in Paro

Most of the ‘standard’ handicraft shops are on the Thimphu-Paro highway just as you enter into Paro. At Paro, try getting a little more local. Scout for stamp and coin retailers and try sending yourself some rare stamps. The crowds are less in these handicraft shops and the owners are likely to give you a bit more time.

If you haven’t sampled Bhutanese sport, Paro gives you a great opportunity to. The Druks like taking aim – Darts and Archery are the popular sports of the region. You will often find children and youth flinging a dart or firing an arrow on some barely even, patchy piece of earth by the wayside. Replace Cricket with Darts/Archery in one of India’s small towns and you have Bhutan. You can find darts and boards being sold for a reasonable price in grocery stores here. They are sold in pairs and you can get them for as cheap as Rs. 250 a pair. 

Carneval!

Graffiti to line the way

Dance on...

Errmmm...not in public plz...(against defecation in public 

Lights...camera....parade

Supercroc!

Towards the finale in the evening (view from the Mandovi hotel)

Viewing Tip: If you arent one to get jostled around on main road, stay at Madovi hotel for an excellent bird's eye view of the parade. Alternatively, you could just have the buffet here out on the verandah and watch!

Something's fishy in Koggala!

He looked like a fisherman too – thin, tanned and half dressed like he was ready to jump into the water. But, he knew I was coming! Well, perhaps not me precisely, but a tourist looking for that great photo! That’s when I realised that what I thought was quite rare and offbeat, was now on the tourist circuit, thanks to some good marketing by Sri Lanka tourism and another iconic Steve McCurry photo. 

When McCurry shot the stilt fishermen in 1995 along the Weligama shores, it was a tradition on the decline – with better boats and fishing methods, fewer felt the need to sit for hours on poles to earn a living. But, what he achieved was to bring this old age tradition to the world. Sri Lanka has cashed in on it – hotels carry paintings of the stilt fisherman, you can even carry home a wooden replica of them as a memento (We did) – the fishermen of Koggala are now world famous. But, the awareness couldn’t stop what was fated. Fisherman continued to find more lucrative ways of earning their living and the authentic fishing method is on its last legs. But, here’s where the catch is (pun intended) – sometimes, the more lucrative job allows them to remain fishermen, at least for a flash!

The fishing stick made of Kitul

The fisherman who approached me spoke in English. Pointing to four more of his kind sitting on poles fairly close to the beach he said, “We are fisherman, this is our job. We have families to support and you must pay 100 rupees to each fisherman if you want a photo.” Adjusting for what was obviously not his native tongue; the intonation was still rather rude and presumptuous. I ignored him and continued towards the beach for a photo. But, a quick shout from the leader and the four fishermen clambered down the poles. It was quite the farce really! A few minutes earlier, I had paid 600 LKR to shoot 3 fishermen posing on the poles. But, then they didn’t demand money, rather requested. As I walked away, the thought that I might have already missed the bus began to sink in. It appeared that all that remained were mere mannequins; locals posing as stilt fishermen for a photo. The scoundrels!

Caught! A fisherman get his catch

It was later that evening, when we decided to drive back down towards Weligama (just for a scenic drive along the coast), when I found them – they were perched modestly on stilts (ritipanna), just the two of them. My presence didn’t seem to bother them and they continued to pick out tiny sardines from the blue waters of Koggala. As waves collapsed upon their stilts, they responded with adroitness in balance. With a whip of their kitul stick, they plucked them out with ease - their catch now gleaming in the setting sun. I spent half an hour taking shots, and not a single fisherman approached me for money, which is why I paid them when leaving. Yes, I paid them; because at the end of the day, these fishermen will go home and evaluate whether or not they should fish or perform like circus clowns. I know what I want I would like them to do, for me and for the next generation of travellers. Thanks to two strangers, I could share Steve McCurry’s reality.

TIPS

• The fishing stick is made of wood called Kitul. The stilts are also referred to as Ritipanna and the fishing string is called thangoos.
• Search long enough and you might just spot the real fishermen – they fish a little after sunrise and before sunset
• Don’t miss the beautiful beach at Weligama – it is a bay so you get sunrise and sunset there
• Go whale watching at Mirissa, a short drive from Koggala.